There is something almost mysterious about The Lodhi; night or day, the property never appears overrun by crowds like other city hotels. Its typical brand of discreet luxury is all about quiet elegance that celebrates subtle, understated indulgence. And Perbacco,

the hotel’s Italian fine-dine restaurant is cut from the same cloth. A meal here is almost like a secret rendezvous, which seems exciting even before your chair has been pulled out. A Murano glassinspired lighting installation and a vibrant Tuscan landscape re-create the charms of Italian Spring. The menu, curated by Michelin Star Chef Adriano Baldassarre, adds a further spring in your step with a happy marriage of pure Italian classics and those that come with a wicked twist of quirk.

The new menu features more traditional food reminiscent of a typical Italian Trattoria. What makes it better are the fresh, seasonal ingredients and produce that combine nutrition with hearty flavours. Did we mention the dedicated wine cellar that offers over 100 labels from the various wine regions across Italy? Needless to say, choice is not just an option but part of its magnanimous outlay.

Food review | The new menu at Perbacco, The Lodhi

Meatballs in a spicy tomato sauce

The tasting menu is an artful curation that is both delightful and delicate, despite delivering on a bomb of flavours. And that is no mean feat. While the fresh Burrata tart served with asparagus and truffle loads up on fresh, light and flavourful, the Beetroot tartare is as deeply robust as its blood red stain on the china. As you deliver morsel after morsel of taste and texture to your palate, one would assume that the newness would wind down with each course. But by the time you come to the Ricotta and spinach ravioli swimming in a dainty butter and sage sauce, while retaining its fleshy firmness, greed intervenes. You tell yourself to be judicious but the garlic sautéed prawns with lemon and rosemary demolish the final bastion of rationed indulgence. As for desserts, the choice of Tiramisu is obvious but wise, however, do try the Delizia Al Limone—a triumph of lemon cello and mascarpone.

WHERE Perbacco at The Lodhi, New Delhi

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